From the shores of Tsara Komba, where forest meets beach in quiet harmony, a boat slips softly across the bay. Its destination is Nosy Tanikely, the “island of the small earth. It’s a short distance by nautical measure, but infinite in wonder.
As the lodge recedes into green velvet hills, the boat glides over waters that deepen from sapphire to cobalt. Flying fish scatter like silver confetti. A sea breeze carries the scent of salt, and time loosens its grip. The world quiets. Here, in Madagascar’s northwestern archipelago, life is measured not by clocks, but by colour, rhythm, and tide.
Then, it appears: a crown of green set in a turquoise sea. Nosy Tanikely rises like a vision from a children’s book. Protected as a Marine and Coastal Reserve, this tiny island holds an astonishing abundance of life. Beneath its waters lies an Eden, wild and intricate and vividly alive.
A snorkel and mask are all you need to enter this peaceful underworld. As the anchor digs into the sand, there’s a splash, and suddenly, you are part of something ancient and eternal. Coral gardens bloom beneath you in impossible colours: lavenders, ochres, celadon greens. Sea turtles paddle by, unhurried. A flicker of silver, perhaps a school of barracuda, or a single, curious batfish. Even the reef sharks, graceful and unthreatening, glide past like sentinels. The water here is so clear it feels like flight.
Above the surface, the island hums with birdsong and the rustle of leaves. A short walk inland reveals lemurs leaping between branches and chameleons peering at you from the lush foliage. At its summit stands an old, weathered lighthouse, casting its gaze across the bay since 1908. From here, the view unfolds: the coral-ringed coastlines, the jewel-like scatter of neighbouring islets, and far beyond, the open Indian Ocean.
But it is not just beauty that defines Nosy Tanikely. It is care. This sanctuary is fiercely protected and is a living commitment to conservation in Madagascar. Visitors are asked to tread lightly, to leave no trace. Fishing is forbidden, and even the most seasoned traveller is reminded they are a guest here. In return, the island offers something rare and profound: the chance to witness nature not only surviving, but flourishing.
As the day draws on, you may find yourself stretched out on the warm sand, a coconut in hand and sea salt still clinging to your skin. The boat waits quietly at anchor, bobbing gently in the swell. Fresh towels and refreshing drinks ready. There is no rush; there never is while staying with us.
This is far more than a sightseeing trip; it’s a crossing. From the familiar into the extraordinary, Nosy Tanikely returns you to that wide-eyed, barefoot kind of wonder we so often leave behind. Here, you are more than a spectator – you don’t just observe nature, you’re drawn into it and find yourself fully immersed. The island opens like a storybook, each page more vivid than the last. A wild, joyful story that feels like a fantasy, but is something beautifully true.
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travel@timeandtideafrica.com
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